Nikon SB-600 Speedlight Bottom half of the flash Disassembling Guide
#0 Screwdriver (1)
Tools for the opening of plastic (1)
It takes a flat edge to remove the cable without damaging it.
Before going into this, there are some things you need to know:
-Flashes contain very large capacitors which are able to stop his heart. There
unlikely, but possible. There are many discussions on this subject online.
-Manual Nikon adjusted/calibrated service said after removing and replacing parts, you need to have. This is something that you do not you; you need specialized equipment and software to do so. However, after Assembly and rapid test
my flash I do not see any problem with it.
Step 1 – bottom half of flash
Discharge the capacitor. Flashes contain very large and powerful capacitors that can stop your heart if he plays in the
good shape. Probably not, but it is possible. If this scares you, you
You should probably take a professional. Press the ‘push’ button and tilt your head 90 degrees to the L-shaped (not shown in this photo). Remove the rubber stopper with ‘push’ engraved on it. Sticks on. I described where the holes are in the photo. Insert a resistor into the two holes at the discharge of the capacitor (also called the condenser). How to download a capacitor on line if you are unsure of the search. I skipped this step because I didn’t want to remove the glue. You really must discharge the capacitor, but if you really want that you can minimize the risk of starting the flash, press the “flash” on the back to be downloaded to most and until you have the opportunity to fully recharge. This minimizes the risk, but I’ve always had a pretty nasty shock even after doing so. At least so badly it was a shock to a 120 volt AC outlet.
Turn your head 90 degrees and remove the two screws (one on each side of the head) of the front of the side of the flash. The two in the back of the Flash can remain in the. Remove the 4 screws on the bottom of the flash.
Remove the from the bottom of the flash. Your will be slightly
different – there is a plate of copper inside of which is the leg unit
welded to try to make pas tear it off or you will have to make a weld.
Unscrew the lid of the battery compartment and carefully remove the front of the box. It has wires connected to it, to not pull too hard.
Remove the plugs from the wiring harness of the three to their receptacles on the circuit. A spudger is good for this. I’ve tried with a needle nose pliers and some damaged wires.
Remove drum (the battery case surrounded by 3 PCB) unit. Only thing that hold in place is unique in the back of the lower part of the body and a little glue on the top HLA. A spudger is useful here.
Remove the wiring harnesses its exit 5. I used a pair of needle-nose pliers to the plug on the far left with success (has a lip that catches in the clip) but I have used the spudger to the rest.
Remove the fiber connector. Drag an edge of the spudger low
the lip that is directly below the doming epoxy and escape. Is
It may be necessary to cut the rubber/glue that is now in place. Do not bend the optical fiber at an acute angle. This cable is not normal copper wire; It is made of something closer to glass and is quite complicated.
The body of your SB-600 is now in pieces (if you don’t)!
You can order the Nikon parts spare parts. I took part of the mine because it fell a few meters and does not turn on you then. Well actually, bought it from craigslist for $50 from
someone who didn’t know how to fix it. Anyway, the resulting problem be only some welds has broken and the components
came loose. The black box with the F100 that twisted on the side and your joints broke and he pushed the resistance with him off the Board.
I I swapped out with one of my other SB – 600, and it worked again!
Most of the time the Assembly is the reverse of disassembly. Is
they are a couple of things in mind. First of all, is that annoying ca
plastic is as it seems, once again to install.Step 11
When you are fired to share these things fell, Don’t? They enter the 2 slots in the lower part of the body. The four screws in the unit’s leg screw on them. Make sure that the holes are aligned before placing the totality of the case. They have a slight curve at one end,
and this effect is directed toward the back of the body (to the LCD screen).
Do you pulled this thread off the coast of the copper plate, don’t you? Of course I did. Twice. If you have a soldering iron, it is easy to peel return, heat from the welding cable and attach the wire. Even without any experience, it is an easy task. If you don’t have a soldering iron, this could be a problem. It is not absolutely necessary to facilitate the work of flash (back together and a few shots without him) but I would not recommend it. Nikon calls the insulating plate, but I don’t know what is. The service manual says do not use anything other than the lead-free solder and use a dedicated in your iron, lead free solder but I don’t know that it is important.
The official maintenance manual recommends having readjusted and calibrated after removal and replacement, but I had no problem with mine, then I put it back together.
Calibrations are not something that you can do. You need hardware and software to do so. See the official service manual for more information on the calibration (or any other part of the disassembly procedure. I have included some links in the introduction.
Reassemble the appliance, follow these instructions in reverse order. See steps 10-12
for tips. For Download Nikon SB-600 Speedlight Bottom half of the flash Disassembling Guide
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